A Year of Grief: Maui Welcomes Visitors, Seeks Understanding | kbnmart

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Upon entering Mala’s bar in Maui, patrons are greeted with a sign asking them to avoid discussing last year’s wildfires with the staff.

Located at the end of Lahaina’s famous Front Street, Mala Tavern is one of the few buildings to survive the deadliest wildfire in the United States in over a century.

“It was very heavy, and it still is for people,” said Ashley Davis, co-owner of Mala Tavern.

Faced with high operating costs and with employees eager to get back to work, the restaurant reopened as soon as Maui County officials allowed it — in February, it became the first restaurant on Front Street to do so.

However, with the loss of Lahaina, Mala Tavern saw a significant decline in visitors, and business has yet to recover. Over the past six years, the restaurant has faced multiple closures, including during the pandemic.

“We want to stay alive,” Davis said.

Mala Tavern’s experience mirrors that of many other businesses on Maui as the island continues to navigate an uncertain path to recovery from the devastating August 8 fires. Those blazes devastated the historic town of Lahaina, killing more than 100 people and destroying homes, businesses and cultural sites.

Over the past year, the Maui community has been trying to balance the economic need for tourism with the emotional recovery of what they lost. The island, and Lahaina in particular, is a close-knit community, and many of those returning to work were directly affected by the fires or know someone who was. The recovery process has not been easy.

The upcoming anniversary of the fires is a poignant reminder that responsible travelers who are sensitive to tragedy and want to directly support the Maui community are welcome.

“The anniversary will be very emotional,” Davis said. “Support Maui moving forward, be aware of what’s going on there, and try to help rather than hinder things.”

“delicate balance”

In the wake of the fires, potential travelers have questioned whether a visit would do more harm than good. Some residents have advised staying away from the island as they try to cope with the tragedy, while others who rely on tourism for their livelihoods have appealed for support. Maui’s economy is heavily dependent on tourism, accounting for about 70 percent of every dollar generated on the island. In the past year, the island has seen fewer travelers — and those financial losses have reverberated across the island.

In the first four months of 2024, Maui welcomed 24% fewer visitors than the same period last year, resulting in a 22.5% drop in visitor spending. Before the pandemic, Maui was the second most visited of the four main Hawaiian islands for both new and repeat visitors, behind Oahu.

“It’s a delicate balance,” Davis said. “I know people are nervous about coming, but there are places that are open and need support because this is our economy, whether we like it or not.”

Businesses that were still recovering from the pandemic are now facing additional challenges in the wake of the fires, such as staffing shortages as many workers have moved to the other side of the island or left Maui entirely, according to Paula Hegel, president of MauiWine, Maui’s only winery in Kula. Others have chosen not to return to work in the wake of their losses.

The Maui Wine plant in Kula is an hour and a half drive from Lahaina, but business is still slow. According to a June 2024 job count, Maui County still has a 6,300-job shortage as of July 2023, with the hospitality sector accounting for more than half of those job losses. Commercial property insurance claims totaled $1.2 billion, with 316 companies filing claims, according to the Hawaii Department of Commerce and Consumer Affairs.

Current government projects aimed at helping Maui recover from the crisis include the Maui Business Bridge Grant to provide financial support, with more than $10 million awarded as of July 31. Another key project is the Lahaina Marketplace, “a space that hosts a variety of different businesses and provides a place for the community to come together to support each other,” said James Kunani-Tokioka, director of the Department of Business, Economic Development and Tourism. “Through efforts like this, the State and County of Maui continue to support Maui businesses and products made on Maui.”

While the future remains unclear, one thing is certain: small businesses that have reopened are struggling to survive.

Almost all areas of Maui are open.

Almost the entire island of Maui is open to visitors, with West Maui welcoming travelers back on Oct. 8. The only area off-limits is the historic town of Lahaina, which is still being cleared of debris, some of which is considered dangerous. Only Lahaina residents are currently allowed in, and they must show proof of residency to rangers.

As of July, USA TODAY was able to visit Aston Kaanapali Shores and Aston at The Whaler on Kaanapali Beach in West Maui, and the area was bustling with tourists. Upcountry businesses, such as Alii Lavender Farm and MauiWine, also welcomed a reporter for this story. Even a snorkeling trip to Molokini Crater with Trilogy Excursions was possible. And despite recent fires near its entrance, Haleakala is also open to visitors.

Vivian Van Leeuwen and her family visited Maui from Salt Lake City, Utah, in late July, staying in Kaanapali and doing activities like the Road to Hana and surfing lessons. Maui was on the family’s bucket list, and they wanted to visit before their oldest son graduated from high school. However, Van Leeuwen knew she wanted to tread carefully in light of the fires, and the family tipped generously everywhere they went.

“Because we knew the history of the fires, we were really respectful of the place and tried not to take pictures of the areas or stare at them because it’s insensitive and inappropriate,” Van Leeuwen told USA Today. Before the trip, she and her husband “prepared our kids” by teaching them not to mention the fires when meeting locals.

The trip was ultimately one of the family’s favorites. “They were so hospitable everywhere we went,” she said.

While it may seem like a normal occurrence for most tourists, many Maui residents are still grieving, especially as the anniversary approaches.

“Some of the challenges are finding that balance with tourism, you know, supporting the local economy, welcoming it back while still providing space for our residents (while) rebuilding and restoring our community,” said Anna Enomoto, a Maui-born and Maui-raised Native Hawaiian and the conservation manager at Aston Kaanapali Shores in West Maui.

Driving through West Maui, the scars of the August tragedy are still there. The Honuapiilani Highway, leading to Lahaina, is dotted with photos of those who lost their lives in the fire. The charred remains of homes and trees are still visible, serving as grim reminders.

“Direct impact is the biggest change you can make.”

Potential travelers often contact Enomoto to inquire about coming to Maui and what is open.

“The fact that you’re asking this question means a lot to me, and it’s also the reason I wanted you to come,” Enomoto said. “You’re the type who’s very vigilant. You’re sensitive to what happened.”

Enomoto encourages visitors to volunteer as a meaningful way to help Maui recover. The island offers a variety of volunteer opportunities, including farming, home building, reforestation, translation, meal preparation, and beach cleanups.

By spending time with the community and helping to “revitalize” the island, travelers will gain a deeper understanding of Maui’s history. “I think it gives visitors a chance to connect,” she said.

The most important thing is for people to make sure their money goes directly into the pockets of the community, not just to hotels. Supporting local businesses and giving good tips are the first steps.

“People think that coming here is like feeding us, that savior mentality, you need us to come here, you won’t thrive without us, but for us, that’s not the case,” said Shannon II, a Native Hawaiian whose family has lived in Lahaina for generations and lost their homes in the fire. “When you come to travel, do you impact the community? Do you make it better or worse?”

I want travelers to go a step further: help the local people they meet.

“Buy a gift card, and when you’re at a restaurant, give it to the waiter,” E. said. “I bet that waiter lost his house. The direct impact is the biggest change you can make.”

“That’s the most important thing: bring your greetings, bring your open hearts, because they will see that,” Enomoto said. “The locals will see if you really care about them.”