As students in at least eight US states return to school this week, there won’t be a single item in their backpacks.: NEW YORK – New York City Mayor Eric Adams recently acknowledged that New York is not quite ready for the new practice. This calls for a rethinking of life without Annex 5 in many sectors. With New York Fashion Week underway, it is easy to imagine how banning cell phones – and the social media that disperses them – could derail the fashion industry and defeat the purpose of today’s runway shows altogether.
Thus, it was refreshing to see a show that went back to the roots of fashion; media and fashion professionals in a stately but unadorned room watching the emergence of a new collection to report on the season’s trends, influence purchasing decisions, and generally keep up with the industry as professionals.
Proenza Schouler delivered on that Wednesday morning with her spring 2025 show, while the natural light of the stage—even on the site of the 1894 New York Mercantile Exchange building—was minimized; for designers Jack McCulloch and Lazaro Hernandez, the collection was the exact opposite.
“Over the last three seasons we’ve been paring things down and stripping things down; last season it was the shirt and the shorts, so this time it was about rebuilding and bringing in old and new icons,” McCulloch told reporters backstage. “It was about re-owning it, making it ours again in that sense,” Hernandez added.
Thus, to this end, high-concept craft treatments emerged, such as abstract printing on clothing, air-filled organza tubes in the form of extreme fringe, and fabrics decorated with feathers and stripes, attributed to Barnett Newman.
The collection featured nautical-inspired graphics thanks to stripes on knit dresses, which were transformed into fringe, clear striped skirts, black and navy paired with white on nautical-style trousers and jackets with buttons that overcame function in favor of an interest in design.
Often asymmetrical panels on the backs of the arms and shoulders formed squared edges and illustrated the collection’s sail-like shape element. According to McCulloch, one of the vertically-influenced shirts was a rectangle with four armholes wrapped around the body.
The concept of button detailing was evident in the use of straps, loops and buckles that were used to create interest rather than for the functional purposes of the garment. Hernandez referred to this as a “stream of consciousness” in the design. A trench coat-inspired shirt caught the attention of many guests. The collection also demonstrated a balance between commercial appeal and interesting design.
Overall, there was an abundance of dresses that designers suggested were a response to last season’s focus on suits. Grecian-inspired pleated dresses, with open sides and belts creating flattering waistbands, closed out the show, while feathered pieces paired with “disturbing” prints offered another evening option.
Accessories remain a strong focus for the brand, according to Hernandez. The brand wore a large, transparent canvas bag called the Tate that held another style of bag inside. The new sneaker update worn with dresses also reinforced the relaxed vibe of the footwear. With a chunky sole juxtaposed with a sleek kitten heel, marabou feather-embellished pumps completed the walking-friendly footwear options.
Starting the week two days earlier than the official calendar was driven by the duo’s desire to take advantage of the space, which only accommodates 140 guests, and hence the need for two shows, and avoid disturbing any of the other designers’ shows: a refreshing consideration.
The timing was also unusual. “This is the first time in 12 years that we’ve aired the show in the morning,” McCulloch noted. It added to the “back to school fashion” vibe.
It was also a way to capture the natural beauty of the Gilded Age building, Hernandez said. “There’s no lighting in the venue, and the light is amazing at 10:30 a.m. That’s why we did it at this time of day, and we knew the weather was going to be great.”
Uptown, another homage to the glory days of the late 20th century, was the setting for two Upper East Side mansions where two prominent Italian designers showcased their latest menswear offerings. In a unique duo, Giorgio Armani x Keith unveiled their collaboration, marking the first time the legendary Italian designer has teamed up with another menswear brand. It’s a smart move considering the brand’s current fascination with Gen Z and the influence of Ronnie Fieg’s urban clothing label.
The collection is displayed on three floors of a townhouse on East 80th Street.D The designers who dressed Armani Casa divided the collection into four archetypes of men: the artist, the entertainer, the traveler and the businessman, who are embodied in the new campaign by Martin Scorsese, Lakeith Stanfield, Pierce Brosnan and Feige himself. Scorsese, a New Yorker by profession, is launching the first campaign with subsequent talents to shoot campaigns in London, Milan and Shanghai in the coming weeks.
The collaboration is expected to feature the best of both worlds: Armani’s impeccable tailoring and luxurious textiles—how about a 7-ply cashmere hoodie? Or streetwear staples like jersey, velvet tracksuits and shirts made from the finest fabrics.
Uptown, Zegna opened the New York branch of its experimental space, Ville Zegna, in honor of its founder Ermenegildo. The book “The Legend of Il Conte” chronicles the then-Italian fabric manufacturer’s first trip to New York in 1938.
Filled with original memorabilia borrowed from the family villa, the Carnegie Hill Neo-Renaissance mansion is designed to take visitors, including press, dignitaries and VIP clients, on a journey to discover Xenia’s roots. After the artifacts, visitors enter a dark room to watch a hyper-sensory video depicting Xenia’s ecological origins, its impact on the Wasi Xenia Mountains and its commitment to building the region’s infrastructure.
The brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which was launched earlier this year, was also showcased. The project, which will visit additional cities to be announced, grew out of a book the brand released earlier this year at Salone Mobile.
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