The independent fashion scene is alive and well in New York. While mid-sized fashion designers in Europe have struggled for a few seasons, here in New York they all look vibrant.
Munsey is in a very good mood.
There’s no better example of this than Monse, designed by the highly successful duo Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. Last month, they had a moment of their own when they dressed former first lady Michelle Obama for the Democratic Convention in Chicago in a stunning sleeveless tuxedo with a pointed collar and skinny pants. And last Saturday, they showed off the most impressive collection of the day in the Meatpacking District.
As with Michelle’s look, the key to the collection was the confluence of technical deconstruction and precise tailoring, which was evident in a stunning array of blazers, fitted jackets, cropped coats and mini dresses. The long-sleeved blazer she paired with a mini skirt made of inverted trousers was truly remarkable. Paris Hilton appeared in another version of the same look – sitting front row – which sparked the ire of photographers.
The duo were on less certain ground when it came to their weekend sportswear, with plenty of striped shirts and dresses, all paired incredibly well with casual loafers.
However, she sparkled in the evening in her screen goddess columns, adorned with sequins. Made of shiny metal and teamed with high heels, she had a lot of authority. Before Grammy and Emmy Award-winning comedian Tiffany Haddish closed the show in a green satin pantsuit, she received the biggest cheers of the day.
Khiti: November rains
Guns n Roses’ rock song November Rain was the backing song to Khaite’s latest show, and it seemed as though the melodrama in the song had affected this set somewhat.
For the past several seasons, the Khaite show, created by designer Catherine Holstein, has been the most creative show in New York. But that wasn’t the case this season, even with some tailored clothes.
The collection was unveiled inside a minimalist white show space, divided by rotating metal panels, and the most successful collection was a series of tuxedos and men’s jackets cut to mid-torso.
Holstein deserves credit for taking so many risks with this collection, but too often her ideas of sheer gauze and chiffon turned into mismatched clouds of fabric. This confused the show’s impact and, like November Rain, led to an unhappy conclusion.
Jonathan Simkhai: Lovely Lace
This season, Jonathan Simkhai took his first inspiration from a silk petal that fell from a family album. The petal was once attached to the dress his mother wore on her wedding day in 1972.
This was a subtle catalyst, and led to a charming collection made primarily in cream, white and beige, with touches of orange and black. Playful coats, bolero jackets, peplums and fitted bra tops, all decorated with fabric petals, flowers and roses.
Simkhai mixed lace panels and embroidery, adding a touch of sophisticated romance. Yet the mood remained elegant and sophisticated, never artificial. He always drew on the DNA of his family, who owned a lace factory in Iran.
It was a beautifully crafted statement delivered early Saturday morning on the 100th floor of New York’s newest skyscraper, The Edge at 30 Hudson Yards. Unfortunately, a massive, pale gray cloud enveloped the building as the show began, so you could barely see a drone passing by outside.
One was left to focus on this composed and elegant ensemble, which received a standing ovation when Jonathan and his mother bowed together at the end.
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